When a project calls for sturdiness, tactile quality, and professional presence, 300 gsm cardstock is often the go-to choice. Whether you’re designing postcards, premium menus, business cards, or handcrafted invitations, this weight hits the sweet spot between flexibility and substantial feel. In this article I’ll share what 300 gsm cardstock really means, how it behaves with different printing processes, practical tips I’ve learned from testing papers in my own studio, and how to choose the right finish and handling methods for reliable results.
What "300 gsm cardstock" actually means
The term 300 gsm cardstock refers to paper that weighs 300 grams per square meter (gsm). That weight indicates its density and gives a reliable signal about thickness and durability — though finish and fiber composition also influence feel. In practical terms, 300 gsm cardstock is thick enough for single-sheet products like postcards and covers, but thin enough to be scored and folded cleanly when done right.
To visualize: common office printer paper is about 80 gsm; greeting card covers and stiff brochures often start around 250–300 gsm. If you pick up a well-printed postcard that feels noticeably substantial without being rigid, you’re likely holding something close to 300 gsm cardstock.
How gsm relates to thickness and the lb system
GSM (grams per square meter) is a straightforward metric measurement. In some regions the pound (lb) system is used for reference, but conversion varies by paper type. For many cover stocks, 300 gsm roughly corresponds to 80–110 lb cover (not a precise conversion because lb depends on basis size). For designers, the easiest approach is to ask for a physical sample swatch — feel and foldability matter more than headline numbers.
Common uses for 300 gsm cardstock
Because it balances rigidity and workability, 300 gsm cardstock is popular for:
- Postcards and direct mail pieces — substantial enough to feel premium through the mail.
- Premium flyers and event programs — durable yet cost-effective for medium runs.
- Invitation cards and RSVP inserts — holds color well and supports embossing.
- Business card covers and layered cards — used as a top layer when paired with heavier cores.
- Packaging components like hang tags and product inserts — sturdy without wasting material.
Finish types and how they affect performance
Surface finish changes not only the look but also printing behavior. The main finishes you’ll encounter are:
- Uncoated — natural feel, excellent for writing and stamping; inks absorb more, which can mute color slightly.
- Satin / Silk — soft sheen, good color saturation with controlled glare; ideal for invitations and photos.
- Gloss — high color pop and vivid prints, but can show fingerprints and glare; great for vibrant postcards and menus.
- Matte coated — non-reflective, elegant look, easy to read text against colored backgrounds.
My experience: choose an uncoated 300 gsm cardstock for anything that requires handwriting or a natural texture. For photographic images, satin or gloss will deliver the best color depth — but test how your printer handles the finish first.
Printing: digital vs offset vs inkjet — what to watch for
300 gsm cardstock behaves differently depending on printing method:
- Digital (laser) printers: Many office lasers can’t reliably run 300 gsm through standard paper paths. Heavy-duty digital presses and production printers do handle it, but watch for fusing issues and toner adhesion problems on uncoated stocks.
- Inkjet printers: High-end photo inkjets can print on some 300 gsm stocks, especially if they are labeled “suitable for inkjet.” However, heavy inks can cause cockling (surface ripples) on uncoated sheets if the paper isn’t designed for ink absorption.
- Offset printing: Offset presses handle 300 gsm well and are ideal for longer runs and precise color control; coatings and varnishes are straightforward to apply.
Practical tip: always request a press proof on the exact 300 gsm cardstock you plan to use. That proof reveals color shifts, ink behavior, and how spot finishes like foil or embossing will register.
Cutting, scoring and folding 300 gsm cardstock
300 gsm cardstock folds cleanly with proper scoring but can crack on the outside if bent sharply without preparation. Here are reliable techniques:
- Scoring: Use a scribe or scoring machine to create a shallow channel before folding. For single folds (invitations, greeting cards), a single crisp score is usually enough.
- Folding: After scoring, use a bone folder or a flat tool to crease the fold gently. If you’re producing at scale, use a folder-built for cover stocks.
- Cutting: Sharp blades are essential. Dull knives cause tear-out or feathering at the edges.
Design considerations specific to 300 gsm cardstock
Designers should account for how the paper absorbs ink, how colors will appear on different finishes, and how edges will cut. A few guidelines I follow:
- Increase safety margins if the final piece will be die-cut — heavyweight stocks can shift slightly during cutting.
- Limit large, heavy ink coverage on uncoated 300 gsm cardstock to avoid cockling; consider a matte or satin coating if extensive coverage is required.
- For duplex printing (printing on both sides), confirm the paper is suitable to prevent show-through and that the printer can feed it reliably.
Coatings, varnishes and special finishes
Applying a coating or varnish to 300 gsm cardstock can enhance durability and aesthetics:
- UV coating: Adds gloss and scuff resistance. Often used on postcards and menus.
- Aqueous coating: Lower sheen than UV, faster drying, and more environmentally friendly.
- Spot varnish / foil stamping / embossing: Adds luxury and tactile contrast. Foil and embossing work beautifully on 300 gsm when the stock has enough body to hold the impression.
Sourcing and sustainability
More suppliers now offer 300 gsm cardstock with FSC certification, recycled content, or options made from alternative fibers. When sustainability matters to you or your clients, ask for chain-of-custody documentation and post-consumer recycled (PCR) percentages. In many of my projects I preferred a 300 gsm cardstock that balanced recycled content with good printing performance — some recycled stocks are slightly more fibrous, so request print samples.
Cost and ordering tips
Price varies by finish, coating, and whether the stock is specialty or sustainably certified. My practice when ordering:
- Order small sample packs from multiple mills — a tactile sample saves money versus a full print run gone awry.
- For large runs, get quotes for both coated and uncoated finishes; sometimes a slightly more expensive coated stock reduces waste by preventing reprints.
- Ask printers about their preferred brands and whether they have stock in-house — this can shorten lead times and reduce shipping costs.
Real-world examples and a short anecdote
I once worked with a local bakery that wanted durable, handwritten-style menu cards for their pastry cases. We tested three papers: 250 gsm uncoated, 300 gsm satin, and a 350 gsm matte. The 250 gsm cockled under the inks and looked cheap. The 350 gsm was too rigid for their small, folded menus and cost more. The 300 gsm satin struck the right balance — printed color looked vibrant, the surface accepted a light varnish for spill resistance, and staff could fold and insert the cards easily into display holders. That real-world test echoed a rule I now use: match the tactile requirements of the use case, not just the numerical weight.
Step-by-step: Preparing files for printing on 300 gsm cardstock
Follow these steps to reduce surprises:
- Set up your document with the correct trim size and include at least 3–5 mm bleed if the design goes to the edge.
- Use CMYK color mode for commercial print; embed color profiles if the printer requests them.
- Outline fonts or include them with the job submission to avoid font substitutions.
- For large solids, consult with the printer about recommended ink percentages or whether to use a coated stock to avoid scumming.
- Request a hard-copy proof on the exact 300 gsm cardstock to inspect color, finish, and folding behavior.
Frequently asked questions (short)
Can I print 300 gsm cardstock on my home printer? Most home printers struggle with 300 gsm because of paper path and feed limitations. Check your printer’s maximum recommended paper weight; specialty heavy-stock capable inkjets and multifunction printers might handle it, but always test.
Is 300 gsm good for business cards? It can be — 300 gsm yields a premium feel for many business cards. For extremely rigid cards, bleeds, or edge painting, printers often recommend 350–400 gsm or multi-layer constructions.
Does 300 gsm cardstock tear easily? No — it’s more tear-resistant than everyday copy paper. However, it can crease or crack along severe folds unless scored and folded correctly.
Where to buy and samples
Buy from established paper merchants, specialty stationery suppliers, or commercial print houses. If you want to compare swatches quickly, many online suppliers send small sample packs. If you need inspiration or a starting point, I recommend requesting a sample of the specific finish you plan to use and printing a color test strip at the local print shop.
For quick access to a site that sometimes lists paper resources and print-related content, you can visit keywords. If you want to explore more buying options or paper brands, mention your region and I’ll recommend local suppliers and mills I trust.
Final recommendations
300 gsm cardstock is a versatile, reliable choice for projects that require a confident, premium feel without going into heavy board territory. My two practical pieces of advice from years of hands-on testing:
- Always request a physical proof on the exact stock and finish before authorizing a full run.
- Score before folding and use finish-appropriate settings on press or digital devices to avoid cracking, cockling, or color surprises.
Whether you’re preparing a limited-run artisan invitation or a midsize postcard campaign, thoughtfully chosen 300 gsm cardstock will elevate perception and longevity. If you’d like, tell me the project (size, finish preference, intended printer) and I’ll suggest a short list of 300 gsm paper options and print settings tailored to your needs. Or, if you're ready to compare suppliers, check this link for a quick starting point: keywords.
Thank you for reading — feel free to ask for sample checklists, a printable scoring template, or help converting your design files for print on 300 gsm cardstock. I’ve spent years testing stocks and working with printers; I’ll be glad to share specific settings that match your equipment and goals. keywords
